Making your own patterns (Part 1)

Guadalupe Arenas de Couto

In this tiny tutorial I'll show you how to take your own measurements so you can design your bodice patterns with so much details, that you'll be able to make lots of designs for your own clothes.

The system I currently use (and the one I learned in school) is the CyC (C and C System, or in spanish Sistema Corte y Confección), made in Mexico back in 1935 by Guadalupe Arenas de Couto and other four teachers who helped her creating this new system.

You don't need a lot of knowledge to create these patterns, but keep in mind that doing clothes (and this system in particular) requires the basic geometry knowledge.

The measurements you'll need are shown in the picture below:

1. Neck: Take the measuring tape all around the lowest part of your neck,
2. Bust: Take the measuring tape all around the highest part of the chest.
3. Waist: Take the measuring tape all around the waist.
4. Hips: Take the measuring tape all around the hips.
5. Hips Height: Take the tape from the waist to the hips.
6. Front Height & Front Height to Bust: 6.1 - Take the measuring tape to the highest part of the neck to the waist, going through the bust. 6.2 - Take again the measure from the neck to the highest part of the bust.
7. Back Height: Take the measuring tape to the highest part of the neck to the waist.
8. Highest Bust Point: Take the measuring tape going through the highest part of one bust to the other.
9. Shoulder Width: Take the measuring tape from one shoulder to the other.

Make sure you've done it right because while doing your patterns, there could be some mistakes you might notice. I recommend measuring at least three times just to make sure, and don't forget to ask for help for the steps 7 and 9, at least!

Now it's time to do some math first. For steps 1 - 4, divide by 4 and for step 8, divide by 2.

Front

Let's start! Go get your basic rulers (set square, L ruler. French ruler...) and draw two straight lines (one horizontal and one vertical) with a right angle. Have in hand measurements 1, 6 and 9, then 2, 3 and 8.

From the vertex (a), horizontal line, draw neck (b) and shoulder width (c).

From a, vertical line, draw b' (same measurement), front height to bust (d) and front height (e). 

Draw a square from b and b'.

From a, draw the bisector and b''.

From d to a, add 4 cm (1.5 In), calling this new point f.   

Draw a rectangle from points c and f, calling that new point g.

Extend the straight line from points f and g, drawing 1/4 bust + 2.5 cm (or 1 In), calling this new point h. 

Draw a rectangle from points h and e, calling this new point i.

Draw from d a straight line, d'.

From e to i, draw 1/4 waist (j). 

From j to i, add 3 cm (1.1 In) (k).

From d to d', draw 1/2 highest bust point (l).

From e to j, draw l'.

Draw a straight line from points d and d' adding 1.2 cm (0.4 In).

From l to l' and l to d', add 2.5 cm (1 In).

From d' to h and d' to i add 2 cm (0.7 In).

From c to g draw 3.5 cm (1.3 In) (m). 

Measure points m to g and divide by 2 (n) and add 1 cm (0.3). 

Find the bisector from point g and add 3 cm (1.1 In) (o).

Now it's time to connect points. Connect points b, b', b''; m, n, o and h using the French ruler. 

Continue adding the straight lines as shown in the pictures below.

Here I forgot to mention the 3 cm in point l' to make the pleat. Please divide by 2 and connect with a straight line. 

This is how it turns out at the end. To remove the pleat from the waist, use only point j while designing your clothes.

It may depend what kind of fabric you're using if you'd like to remove the bust pleat.

To create a pleat in the shoulders, divide points b to m by 2 (p).

Add from b to m 3 cm (1.1 In).

Connect p to l.

From p to l add 8 cm (3.1 In)

Use p as middle point of the 3 cm (1.1 In) you added.

Connect points

I do really hope this helps you a lot. I'll continue doing the back, skirt front and back and sleeve patterns in the next posts (maybe next sunday).

Thank you for reading and don't forget to ask, suggest or comment whatever you'd like! 

See you next time!